My pet ate something toxic. What now?
Most poisonings are survivable if you act inside the first hour. The single most useful thing you can do is phone a poison line before you drive anywhere — they will tell you whether this is a wait-and-watch or a floor-it.
Do these three things, in this order:
- Get your pet away from the substance — and stop other pets reaching it.
- Call a poison line or your vet. Don't wait for symptoms. With the fastest-acting toxins, symptoms mean you are already behind.
- Collect the evidence: packaging, the plant, a photo of the chewed remains, a rough estimate of how much and how long ago. This changes the treatment plan more than anything else you can tell them.
Do not induce vomiting unless a professional tells you to. For a whole category of poisons it makes the outcome dramatically worse. More on that below.
Who to call
Animal poison control lines are staffed by veterinary toxicologists and have dose data no general practice keeps on hand. They will give you a case number that your vet can use to consult the same specialists during treatment. In the US and Canada there is a consultation fee of roughly $75–$95; it is genuinely worth it, and it is a fraction of the cost of treating a poisoning that was handled wrong for the first two hours.
| Country | Line | Number |
|---|---|---|
| United States | ASPCA Animal Poison Control | (888) 426-4435 |
| United States | Pet Poison Helpline | (855) 764-7661 |
| Canada | Pet Poison Helpline | (855) 764-7661 |
| United Kingdom | Animal PoisonLine | 01202 509000 |
| Ireland | Animal PoisonLine (UK) | +44 1202 509000 |
| Australia | Animal Poisons Helpline | 1300 869 738 (free) |
| New Zealand | Animal Poisons Helpline | 0800 869 738 (free) |
The Australian and New Zealand services are free. If you are in the UK or Ireland, the Animal PoisonLine is the pet-owner-facing arm of the same service vets use, and costs far less than an unnecessary out-of-hours consultation.
The genuinely dangerous list
Plenty of things cause a bad stomach. This section is about the ones that cause organ failure or death, roughly ordered by how often they put pets in emergency hospitals.
Xylitol (birch sugar) — dogs, minutes to hours
The most underestimated poison in the house. Xylitol triggers a massive insulin release in dogs, crashing blood sugar within 10–60 minutes, and at higher doses causes liver failure a day or two later. It is in sugar-free gum, mints, some peanut butters, protein bars, toothpaste, vitamins and increasingly in "keto" baking products. A few pieces of gum can hospitalize a small dog.
Check labels for xylitol or birch sugar. This one is an immediate call, not a wait-and-see, and the dose that matters is small enough that "he only had a bit" is not reassuring. Cats appear to be far less sensitive, but the data is thin.
Antifreeze / ethylene glycol — dogs and cats, hours
Sweet-tasting, and lethal in tiny amounts — a few teaspoons can kill a cat. It destroys the kidneys, and the treatment window is brutally short: roughly 3 hours for cats and 8–12 for dogs before damage becomes irreversible. Early signs look like drunkenness, then a deceptive "recovery", then kidney failure. If you have any suspicion at all, drive now and call from the car. This is the one poisoning where hours genuinely decide the outcome.
True lilies — cats, hours
Lilium and Hemerocallis species — Easter, Tiger, Stargazer, Asiatic, Day lilies — cause acute kidney failure in cats. Every part is toxic: petals, leaves, stem, pollen, and the water in the vase. A cat that brushes past and grooms pollen off its fur has ingested a dose. Peace lilies and calla lilies are different plants and much less dangerous, which is a common and costly confusion. If a cat shares a house with a true lily, treat any contact as an emergency.
Chocolate — dogs, 6–12 hours
The classic, and genuinely dangerous, though less often fatal than its reputation suggests. The toxin is theobromine, and concentration is everything: baking chocolate and cocoa powder are roughly ten times more dangerous per gram than milk chocolate, and white chocolate is effectively harmless. A Labrador that eats a milk chocolate bar will likely be fine; a terrier that eats a bar of 90% dark is an emergency.
Have the wrapper ready — type of chocolate, weight, and your dog's weight are exactly what the poison line needs. Signs run from vomiting and restlessness up through racing heart, tremors and seizures.
Grapes, raisins and sultanas — dogs, 24–72 hours
Cause acute kidney injury in some dogs and nothing at all in others, and nobody can predict which. There is no established safe dose, so all ingestion is treated as potentially serious. Recent research points to tartaric acid as the culprit, which also implicates cream of tartar and tamarind. Because the effect is idiosyncratic, "my last dog ate raisins and was fine" is not evidence about this dog.
Human painkillers — dogs and cats, hours to days
Ibuprofen and naproxen cause stomach ulceration and kidney failure. Cats are roughly twice as sensitive as dogs. Paracetamol / acetaminophen is the serious one for cats — they lack the enzyme to process it, and a single regular-strength tablet can be fatal, causing the blood to lose its ability to carry oxygen. Signs include swollen face and paws, and gums that look brown or muddy rather than pink.
Never give human painkillers to a pet. Dosing "a small amount" of an over-the-counter medicine is one of the most common ways well-meaning owners cause an emergency.
Rodent bait — dogs and cats, days
Critically, "rat poison" is three different poisons with three different treatments: anticoagulants cause internal bleeding after 3–5 days, bromethalin causes brain swelling, and cholecalciferol causes calcium to spike and the kidneys to fail. The antidote for one does nothing for the others. Find the box. The active ingredient on the label is the single most useful thing you can bring to the vet, and without it treatment is guesswork.
Permethrin — cats, hours
A common insecticide in dog flea treatments that causes severe tremors and seizures in cats. Cats are usually poisoned when a dog product is applied to them by mistake, or when they groom a recently-treated housemate. Always check that a flea product is licensed for cats specifically.
Also worth knowing
- Onions, garlic, leeks, chives — destroy red blood cells; cats and Japanese breeds are most sensitive. Concentrated forms like onion powder and stock cubes matter more than a stray ring of onion.
- Macadamia nuts — dogs; weakness, tremors, wobbly back legs. Unpleasant, rarely fatal.
- Sago palm — every part, especially the seeds, causes liver failure in dogs. Very high fatality rate.
- Raw bread dough — expands in the stomach and ferments into alcohol. Two emergencies at once.
- Cannabis — rarely fatal alone, but edibles often combine THC with chocolate or xylitol. Be honest with the vet; they are treating your pet, not reporting you.
- Glow sticks — cats bite them, then foam dramatically. Alarming, mostly harmless; offer food and rinse the mouth.
When you should not induce vomiting
Making a pet vomit is a medical decision, not a first-aid default, and it is dangerous in several common situations. Do not induce vomiting if:
- The substance is caustic — drain cleaner, oven cleaner, bleach, batteries. It burns the throat a second time coming up.
- The substance is a petroleum product — fuel, paint thinner, lamp oil. Inhaling it into the lungs on the way up causes a pneumonia that is worse than the poisoning.
- Your pet is already symptomatic — wobbly, sedated, tremoring or seizing. They can inhale the vomit.
- The object was sharp, or your pet is a flat-faced breed prone to aspiration.
- It has been more than about two hours — it has likely left the stomach, and you are causing distress for nothing.
- Your pet is a cat. Home methods that work in dogs are unreliable and harmful in cats. Cats need in-clinic treatment.
The internet's standard suggestion of 3% hydrogen peroxide has fallen out of favor even for dogs — it reliably causes stomach inflammation, and vets now have safer injectable drugs that work in minutes. If a poison line does tell you to induce vomiting at home, they will give you the specific dose for your animal's weight. Don't freelance it.
What treatment actually involves
Knowing the shape of the visit helps, because the estimate will otherwise be a shock. Depending on the toxin and timing, treatment usually involves some of:
- Decontamination — inducing vomiting in clinic, or washing the stomach out under anesthetic.
- Activated charcoal — binds what is left so it passes through rather than absorbing. Some toxins need repeated doses.
- IV fluids — supports the kidneys and speeds elimination. This is why so many poisonings become overnight stays.
- Bloodwork — often repeated at 24 and 72 hours, because kidney and liver damage shows up late.
- Specific antidotes — these exist for antifreeze, paracetamol and anticoagulant baits, among others, and are far more effective early.
A straightforward decontamination-and-monitoring visit commonly runs a few hundred, while anything needing multi-day fluids and repeat bloodwork can reach several thousand. Our guide toemergency vet costs breaks the numbers down, andwhat to do when you cannot afford the bill covers the options that actually exist.
Preventing the next one
Almost every poisoning we hear about follows the same three patterns: a handbag left on a chair (gum, medication), a bin that a dog can nose open, and a well-meant gift of human food. Bags go up high, bins get a lid that latches, and guests get told the rules before the dog works them out.
The other prevention that costs nothing: put a poison line number in your phone now, under a name you will find while panicking. "Pet poison" beats trying to remember which of two similar numbers is the free one at midnight.
Have a vet ready before you need one. Look up your nearest 24-hour hospital today and save the drive time — the moment you need it is the worst moment to be searching.Find open clinics near you.
About this guide. Written and maintained by the VetsOpenNow editorial team. We are not veterinarians, and this is general information rather than veterinary advice — it cannot account for your animal's history, species, breed, age or medication. Anything describing a symptom is written to help you decide whether to call a professional, never to replace one. When guidance here differs from what a vet tells you about your animal, follow the vet.
Last reviewed August 2026. Spot something wrong? Tell us — we correct errors quickly.